Kota Bharu: A Short Rainy Break at Peninsular Malaysia’s Far East
Our stay was short. It was rainy, yet it didn’t hamper us in
going around Kota Bharu, the capital city of Kelantan state in northeastern Peninsular
Malaysia. Although it may look like any other Malayan town, the short trip
somehow gave us some local experience—a bit deeper in the Malayan culture.
The Kelantanese state flag |
The city is located on the western banks of Sungai Kelantan,
and more than a couple of kilometers from the Thailand border. Established in
the 19th century, it became the royal capital of the Kelantanese
sultanate and subsequently the State of Kelantan after the independence of
Malaya from British rule. It was also here when the Japanese Imperial Forces
first invaded the peninsula to which ended up with the surrender of Singapore.
Street art near Padang Merdeka |
Unlike its contemporaries in the western coast, Kota Bharu
is known to be one of Malaysia’s conservative cities. Muslims take up most of
its citizens. Visitors are advised to dress modestly when traveling to the
city, observe and respect local cultural customs.
And although it was rainy that November day, the city moves
on in its usual beat.
Downtown Kota Bharu
We’re really fans of old towns or city centers. For us to experience
“what is truly local,” we head on to the old city center of KB—which is petite,
laidback, yet walkable.
One o the gates of Istana Balai Besar. It is one of the landmarks of the city. The architecture and the landmark projects the image of an "Islamic city." |
The city radiates from the Istana Balai Besar, the royal palace
of the Kelantanese sultans. Up to this day, the sultan of the state still lives
here, together with his family. We can only get a glimpse of the vernacular
architecture from the gates—which is marked with Jawi and Arabic inscription,
and a tall monument with a Holy Qur’an on a Rehal (book stand) on top.
Istana Jahar exhibits vernacular Kelantanese architecture. It's also our glimpse what is inside the sultan's palace. |
Just a glimpse of Istana Balai Besar, the royal palace of the Kelantanese sultans. |
And while we can only guess what’s going on inside the royal
palace, fortunately Istana Jahar and Muzium Islam, which is located just beside
Padang Merdeka are open to the public. These heritage buildings gives us a
glimpse of Kelantanese culture and history, though our limited time didn’t
permit us to go inside at that time.
Muzium Islam is one of the old heritage buildings in KB. |
Walking along Padang Merdeka, we get a glimpse of the mighty
Sungai Kelantan (Kelantan River) while locals chill and do their usual stuff. It
was a laidback morning—way laidback. Was it because it was a weekday or it was
just drizzling around?
Padang Merdeka. The green space just in front of the Sultan's palace. |
As we go back to the Kelantan State Museum where our good
friend of ours was having a his field work, we went through several blocks of
old shophouses. While some of it looks new, but it has still maintained the “standard”
Malayan shophouse seen in other parts of the country. It was clean yet unlike
in Melaka and KL, the locals dominate the streetscape.
One of the shophouses in KB. |
Too bad, we haven’t have time to go to Pasar Siti Kadijah,
the city’s main marketplace, to buy some Kelantanese batik polo.
More shophouses in downtown KB. |
Bulatan Jam Besar, where the Musuem is located, looked like
some Middle Eastern green space, with palms similar to the date palms, and an
Arab-influenced clock in the middle of the park. What makes it “Kelantanese”
are the shophouses and traditional Malayan bangunan
or buildings. The park somehow projects the image of the city as an bailiwick
of Islam in the country.
The clock tower square felt like we were in some Middle Eastern country, with date palms and an Arabic-inspired clock tower. |
When we arrived at the Museum, our friend wasn’t finished
yet. It was raining outside and we don’t want to risk getting sick and wet, so
we waited for him at the State’s Tourism Office. While taking time, it’s
fortunate to have struck conversations with the officers there—one of which is
very familiar with Filipino culture—from the traditional to Jericho Rosales
(yes, they’ve said “Mahal na Mahal Kita”
to us several times on our visit—a famed quote from one of our teleseryes). We
were given insight that the famed Malaysian kite, seen in Malaysian Airlines’
logo and tourism commercials called “wau
bulan” came from this state. That they too practice wayang kulit traditionally in Kelantan, though has been discouraged
due to its “non-Islamic” affiliation. That the state was named from lightning or
kilat (hence, it’s sound so familiar
for us Filipinos). It was really a good experience with them that we
established rapport. It didn’t bore me. It was warm, despite the cool and humid
weather outside.
Just as when we were having some good conversations, our
friend was done with his transaction and we need to head back to Terengganu for
our flight back to KL that night. We’ve promised that sometime soon, we’ll go
back to KB and stay longer—and when the sun is shining.
Food!
The night before we went around the city, we were stuck at
Hotel Perdana because of the rain. With nothing to do and shrugging the
possibility of eating at a nearby KFC, we went down to the lobby and asked the
receptionists where can we eat “locally.” The lady receptionists, in their
black hijab and uniform, politely suggested for us to eat at a street hawker
just behind the hotel. Their warm hospitality took a higher level when they
found out that we were Filipino and asked if we were part of a soap opera
shooting nearby. These funny and light events made our stay in KB memorable.
Nasi kerabu in a hawker just behind Hotel Perdana. |
And so they led me, using the backdoor, to the lone street
hawker just behind the hotel serving Nasi Kerabu that drizzly night.
A hawker station just behind Hotel Perdana. Got our meal for more or less RM4 only! |
“Satu Nasi Kerabu sila,”
(One nasi kerabu please) we said in our broken Bahasa. The food is widely known in Kelantan and
Terengganu.
We were given a hefty amount of dinner food. Blue rice
served with keropok (Malaysia’s own kropek fish chips), shallots, chili, ayam
goreng (we added that one), and some ikan bilis (dried and fried anchovies).
Using our hands, we ate it like it was in some fiesta at the barrio—a trait
that we shared, we guess, with our Malaysian brothers and sisters. We did some campur (mixed the ingredients), ate it
along with some warm teh tarik (steeped
milk tea). All for more or less RM4 (around PHP50 or little less than US$1!)
Kopitiam Kita's Roti Titab, Kopi, and we forgot the name of that nasi over there. |
The day after, we had our breakfast in Kopitiam Kita, one of
KB’s famed morning breakfast stops. We were overwhelmed with the selection of
food—from different nasi lemak, nasi daging, nasi kerabu, roti titab, and a
whole lot more!
To be honest, there are so many options that we like to try it all! Hahaha!!! |
The place was full to the brim, with people having their
warm cup of kopi (coffee) along with a hearty breakfast that is truly Kelantanese
Malayan.
We ordered some roti titab (toasted bread with condensed
milk and soft-boiled egg on top) and some other nasi out there—and it was sedap! (delicious)
Looking Forward in the Future
Our trip was short. It was overnight. I wasn’t able to see
the wayang kulit that our friend had
that day. It was rainy, sober, and had limited budget since we were heading
home that night. For such a short stay, we did enjoy our short break in KB.
Laidback, warm, and far from the maddening tourist crowd, we think it is what
we need in our busy and often fast-paced life.